What Places Are Notoriously Hard to Reach on Your Car?
We all have to dig into our vehicles to repair, replace or simply retrieve something at some point. Be it addressing a bad exhaust manifold gasket, failed starter, or your cell phone that slid between the seat and the console, some places are notoriously hard to reach. Sometimes it feels like this was created by design, especially when you need to get something done quickly.
This week’s question should generate many unique stories and relatable tales of painfully difficult things to reach in your vehicle. There are just some places that are so much harder than others, especially on some vehicles. For me, it’s the ritual of doing an oil change on my Lincoln Mark VIII, because I truly hate the filter location.
See the Mobil 1 oil filter nestled deep within the engine cradle, further obscured by the anti-roll bar underneath? Granted, I’ve made this job harder for myself, as said bar is a much larger piece from Addco. While access to spin the oil filter off from the block is straightforward, the oil pours down the engine cradle (all around the pictured metal/rubber hose) and collects at the divot in the cradle’s sheetmetal. It’s a mess, especially since there’s another divot which requires careful placement of your oil pan to ensure it catches used oil from both locations.
It’s a hot mess (literally), but I haven’t even discussed the real chore: getting the oil filter between the engine and that Addco bar. The trick is to stick your pointer finger in the oil filter, clamp down with said finger, and pull down hard so it slides past the bar.
I’ve owned this car for over two decades and can change the oil without frustration, but this filter is still “notoriously hard” to reach. So now I shall kick the question back to you:
What places are notoriously hard to reach on your car?
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My ’99 Chevy GMT-400 3/4 ton (classic series). The oil filter on the 5.7 Vortec is the same kind ugliness noted in the article. I’m going to try the bag suggestion made by one of the commenters next time.
The other was my 1975 Mustang II I owned in the 80s. It had a 302 V8 and my choice for the rear spark plug on the passenger side was to attempt a removal with two universals and an extension working around the battery or pull the battery out first. Then reset things like the stereo and clock. It was really not a choice because even if the universals and patience got the plug out, there was no way it was going back in without risking a thread disaster. I got very good at removing the battery and had the cleanest post clamps on the street. Once the battery was out, the plug was the easiest to access.
A friend who was a mechanic learned to curse engineers in German just to be prepared anytime a BMW came through the door.
Oil filter on first gen Honda CR-V. Horizontal, back of block facing firewall. You have to snake your arm in to even touch it, barely enough room for a strap wrench and you will have oil running down your arm as you remove it. Obviously designed for mechanics half my size.
Not sure I’ve seen this many posts this quickly on any topic. Guess that proves that most cars have something that is inconvenient to reach. Back in the day, my uncle had a first generation Shelby GT 500. His first tune up (spark plug change) took two days. He traded it in before the second one. Personally, I had a similar experience with my ‘66 Sunbeam Tiger. Had to drill a hole in the tunnel and lay in the driver side footwell to get to the last plug. Finished up with a rubber plug in the hole which made it easier the second time!
I just replaced the thermostat housing and temperature sensors on a 2002 Mazda B4000 Pickup ( identical to Ford Ranger with 4.0 SOHC engine. 5 hrs to get the housing out, sensors etc. and 5 hours to put back. Wiggle room is almost nil to get parts in and out.
Most difficult place for me to reach in my 3 modern cars is between my wife’s legs. She closes them faster than a goalie in the Stanley Cup Finals.
Ironically, when we were dating in my ‘67 Fairlane, it was easy to get my hand in there.
One more example why cars back then were so much better!!!
When ur 72 and have had 5 back operations, anything underneath the dash is a major problem repairing!!!
Any brake master cylinder mounted on the frame beneath the drivers feet (many without any access hatches). Far worse however are the bellhousing bolts on Willys L6-226 “Super Hurricane” and T-90 transmission. Even knowing as many tricks, techniques as possible and receiving countless suggestions, solicited and otherwise, still a brutal trial of patience.
I’m very old school – my teenage experiences began in the late 1940s. We simply “did stuff” – we rebuilt any and all “stuff” that was rebuildable. If you want examples, find a way to contact me.
In the spring of 1985, l my 1980 Lincoln Mk 6 had a rusted-out core plug in the passenger side of the 302 block. (California did not allow sale of the big blocks after 1979.) I’m between jobs so I jack it up (yes, I put jack stands under it) and managed to get a pull hammer with a screw point to pull it out. How to get the new plug in??? After cleaning the mating surface and putting some sealer, I mounted the new core plug backed by a large socket and used a 1/2″ bolt with a sleeve against the socket and began to crank. Super tight spot. I tore a muscle in my right shoulder that has not healed to this day. But, in Southern style, “I got ‘er done”.
A hard to reach place for ME,is on my 2001 Ford Ranger XLT,it has the 4.0L V-6 and when changing the sparkplugs,all can easily be gotten to on the driver’s side bank,however on the passenger side bank,the first one can be taken out rather easily,and possibly the 2nd plug with some wiggling room but to access the REAR plug,against the firewall…….You literally have to completely remove the front-tire to get access to the small plastic/rubber flap that shields the tire-well from where the engine sits. Only by removing that front tire,can that last plug be reached! Thank goodness I have long,slim arms and fingers! Lol.
The crankshaft position sensors on GM 8.1L’s are a tale of woe also.
2014 GMC Acadia. You guys think it is older cars that make things difficult, at least you can find the part in the vehicle. I had to recharge the A/C in my Acadia. Finding the low pressure tap is an experience all in itself. The low pressure tap is only accessible by lying on the ground and reaching up between the the cross member and the engine. Once you have contorted your right arm to touch the cap, you next must unscrew it and then figure out how to get the hose up to attach it to the tap. Over the nine years I’ve had this vehicle I did the recharge twice. Next time I’ll have a shop do it!
And talk about an oil filter change, impossible with any tool but the special contortion tool from GM. The filter is in there with the low pressure A/C tap. I don’t change my oil.
Just about anything on a Mini Cooper. New style, my 76′ 1275GT is a pie of cake but the new ones. Anything electrically controlled must be “coded in” before it works. And everything is so tight you need a 5 year old size hands to access.
Changing the oil pressure sensor on a 2013 Yukon Denali 6.2 AWD. The sensor is on top of the intake at the rear of the engine, totally surrounded by the firewall and the intake. Watched a You Tube video on how to do the replacement, and that guy pulled the intake manifold off just to replace the sensor.
Also, wholeheartedly agree with the comments about the spark plugs on a early 70’s Trans Am. Mine was a SD 455 in a 74 model, and the passenger side was a royal pita!