Your Handy 1979–85 Mazda RX-7 FB Buyer’s Guide

Long before the Miata became the world’s best-selling sports car, Mazda had a claim to building a quite prolific car in this sector with the original RX-7. Offered from 1979 to 1985, the sleek coupe notched up 471,018 sales, with the U.S. accounting for roughly 80 percent of them, and early on at least, buyers couldn’t wait to get their hands on the revolutionary little Japanese sports cars. What made this volume all the more remarkable was that the RX-7 was put together from an assembly of seemingly unprepossessing components.

By the mid-1970s, buyers were falling out of love with Mazda’s thirsty rotary engine–powered cars as escalating fuel prices and pollution were increasingly weighing heavy on the minds of consumers. Mazda’s designers and engineers refused to give up on their light, compact engine, however, so instead they refined it.

Chief among the changes were improved lubrication and engineering better apex seals—the seals at the tips of each rotor that act not unlike the piston rings in a reciprocating engine. What they came up with was the 1146-cc 12A rotary, which was light, free-revving, and didn’t take up much space. In other words, the ideal engine for a sports car, which is where the RX-7 came into the equation.

The project, dubbed internally as X605, was led by Mazda’s head of research and development at the time, Kenichi Yamamoto, and the rotary engine was mounted well back in the RX-7’s chassis, so it sat behind the front wheel line. This helped achieve 50:50 weight distribution, so the project was off to a great start. To this, Mazda added simple but effective MacPherson strut front suspension and a live rear axle located by a Watts linkage. Stopping was courtesy of front discs and rear drums. The $7195 base S model was offered with a four-speed manual transmission, while the $7995 upscale GS featured a five-speed manual, with an automatic as optional. The GS also featured larger alloy wheels and a rear antiroll bar, among other goodies. Both were pure two-seaters, though in other markets the car was offered as a 2+2.

Clothed in a simple yet stylish two-door coupe body with a large glass hatch and pop-up headlights, the 100-hp RX-7 earned plaudits from many magazine road testers. They praised the handling, quality, and the general fit and finish. “Every person on our staff returned from driving the Mazda with glowing praise for its performance, handling, and comfort features,” wrote Road & Track it he August 1978 issue. “Enthusiastic unanimity of that sort is exceedingly rare.” Up against the likes of Datsun 280ZX, the Mazda was quicker and was a worthy alternative to the Porsche 924.

Mazda introduced the 135-hp, fuel-injected 1308-cc 13B rotary for 1984. It was fitted only in the top-of-the-line GSL-SE trim, which was now a $15,000 car.

Despite selling more than either of the following two generations of RX-7 combined, original cars are getting harder to find in good condition. Inevitably, prices—which we’ll come to—are also on the up as more people hanker after the style, purity, driving enjoyment, and interesting engineering this compact sports car has to offer.

What’s an RX-7 Like to Drive?

Anyone who has taken a first-gen Mazda Miata by the scruff of its neck on a twisty road will have a fair idea of how the original RX-7 behaves. It’s not about power or masses of grip, or even particularly high cornering speeds. Instead, it’s all about balance, and the RX-7 has it in spades.

The rotary engine sits low and far back in the bay, so not only is the weight evenly apportioned front to back, it’s carried low down. It means there’s less body lean in the RX-7 than, say, a 280ZX, and it has a similar amount of grip to a Porsche 924. Drive harder and the Mazda rises to the challenge every time, with only an occasional wiggle from the rear end to let you know it’s time to ease up.

Mazda went for a simple suspension design in the RX-7, but it’s well set up and gives this the coupe a reasonable ride for its type and period. There’s enough suppleness for longer drives, and a well-sorted RX-7 won’t shimmy or rattle on badly pitted road surfaces. Where the RX-7 does feel a step behind the competition is in its steering feel, with a recirculating ball system that doesn’t quite offer the fine feedback of the rack-and-pinion in a Porsche 924.

You won’t worry too much about the steering feel, however, as it’s still direct and well weighted, whether in town or on back roads. Plus, the gear shift is quick and well defined—a Mazda staple—so only a car with worn linkages will offer a slack action.

And you will use the gears quite a lot, as the rotary engine needs to be worked to its 7000-rpm redline to get the best from it. With just 105 lb-ft in the way of torque, the RX-7’s engine compensates with revs, and it sounds great when doing so. Not everyone will love the unusual noise, which has a hint of jet airliner to it (the flying machines, rather than the Steve Miller Band song), but it’s incredibly smooth, particularly by the standards of its era. And unlike the two-stroke engines to which you can compare a rotary’s behavior, the RX-7 can also cruise all day without fear of damaging the engine.

Cabin comfort is another plus for the RX-7, and it feels a bit more special than its contemporaries. You sit low to the ground but with decent vision all around, aided by the large glass rear hatch. Controls are well organized and not dissimilar to those of the Miata that followed in 1989, with clear main dials and a center console with stereo and heating adjustment.

How Much Does an RX-7 Cost?

Values of the first-generation Mazda RX-7 had been stagnant for a long time, but about 10 years ago they began a long, steady climb, before leveling off in 2022. During that period, 12A-powered cars in #1 (concours) condition went from $10,000 to $44,000, where they remain today. Similar cars in #2 (excellent) shape will now set you back around $24,000, while a #3 (good) driver falls in right about $10,000. In period, the luxurious GSL package added four-wheel discs, a limited-slip differential, leather seats, power windows, and cruise control. When shopping that trim today, factor in another 10 percent on the above prices. Finally, the 1984–85 GSL-SE, which added the more powerful 13B engine, adds 20 roughly percent to the value. If you’re after a discount, or you simply can’t drive a stick, automatic-equipped RX-7s tend to be valued at 20 percent less than their three-pedal friends.

What to Look for When Buying an RX-7?

Much of the appeal of the Mazda RX-7 lies in its otherworldly rotary engine, which revs so keenly and with such an unrivaled sound. Doom-mongers will tell you to start with the engine’s rotor tip seals, but you should begin with a visual inspection of all the coolant hoses. Any leaks here can be solved with new pipes, which are not expensive to replace and can prevent much pricier problems in the future. Also look for any white smoke from the exhaust after start-up—that points to worn oil control rings. Check for oil leaks from the relevant pipework and oil cooler connections, as the oil helps keep the engine at the correct temperature.

If all of that looks okay and the engine fires up promptly, with little or no smoke as soon as it is running, you should have a healthy motor. That said, it is still worth spending the money on a professional compression check, which should see the motor register at least 75 psi, with a reading over 85 ideal. Anything less than that points to an imminent engine rebuild.

Front and rear crankshaft seals can leak oil and also require an engine strip, which is when you can check the rotor tip seals. These seals are cheap to replace, but the labor to strip the engine makes it an expensive job, so you might as well do all of the jobs to make the engine as good as new if going to this extent. Just make sure you’re dealing with a specialist in rotary engines. Whether you need an engine rebuild or not, you should change the oil every 3000 miles or annually, depending on which comes first. You also need to keep a close eye on the oil level and use a good quality 20W/50 semi-synthetic oil.

The RX-7’s transmission and running gear is strong and easy to work on for the home mechanic. Gearboxes don’t wear out easily, and a clutch can easily last up to 100,000 miles. Steering and suspension will benefit from a refresh with new bushings and rubber bits.

With the bodywork, all of the usual rot spots for cars from the 1970s and ’80s need to be given a good prod. This means wheel arches, inner fenders, sills, floor pans, door bottoms, windscreen surround, trunk floor, and suspension mounts. Replacement panels are very thin on the ground, so you’ll either need to be handy with forming metal shapes or be prepared to pay a professional restorer, but the good news is the RX-7 is no more complicated to put right than any of its contemporaries.

It’s the same story for the interior of the RX-7. New parts are like dental implants for hens, so a car with a good interior but worn engine will ultimately be easier to restore. There are a handful of specialists out there with stocks of parts, and there is strong club support, particularly online, which can help point the way.

Which Is the Right RX-7 for You?

The only major choice is whether you want the 100-hp 12A-powered experience or the more powerful but also more gizmo-laden GLS-SE with the 135-hp 13B from 1984–85. For the purest driving experience, the earlier cars are probably the ones to have. However, those extra 35 ponies and the limited-slip diff are never not fun. Ultimately, it will probably come down to overall condition and whether you’re after a show car that needs nothing, an RX-7 to use and enjoy, or one to restore.