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6 Things to Check Before Driving Your Classic in a Parade
On a clear Tuesday afternoon, my phone rang with a call from an old friend.
“You have plans on the 4th?”
Walking outside to enjoy some sun while we catch up, I told him there was nothing on my calendar.
“Well, you want to drive in the parade together?”
Who can say no to something like that? Parades are fun, and any excuse to get out and drive a vintage car is a good one. Considering a parade is possibly one of the safer ways to drive a car—only one-way traffic, slow speed, otherwise shut down roads—it’s hard to see any downside. So of course I told him yes.
Given the chance, I’d encourage you to do the same, but you should know that your chances of having a good time increase dramatically if your car is as ready for the parade as you are. Unsure what that means? Here are six things to look into before you line up behind the high school band for a slow-speed tour of town.
Cooling system
If there is one common fear of vintage cars in parades, it is overheating, and for good reason. Vintage cars typically get driven differently than modern cars, and therefore some small issues get hidden or ignored. Many vintage car cooling systems are perfectly adequate for parade duty, but only if they are in proper running condition. Improper coolant, inadequate fill, no fan or fan shroud to help airflow, or a radiator blockage can all force a parade car to pull off to a side street in a hurry.
Fuel system
When thinking about temperature, it’s easy to jump to water pumps and radiators, but it’s just as important to think about the temperature of your fuel system, too. Vapor lock happens when fuel begins to boil in the lines or pump, the latter of which is designed to move fluids rather than vapors. Vapors in the pump essentially stop the flow of fuel and make the car act as though it ran out of gas while the tank is still full.
The key to curing vapor lock is keeping the fuel cool. There are no shortage of methods that work and even more that some guy at a cruise-in swears worked for his sister’s boyfriend’s cousin’s Camaro back in ’74. Two proven methods are insulating the fuel lines to help keep the heat from the engine compartment and exhaust from soaking into the lines, and another is adding an electric fuel pump. Electric pumps are often best placed near the tank—naturally away from heat—and therefore do not have the problem of getting vapor locked. Electric pumps also push any pockets of vapor that might appear in the lines with no problem. Be sure to match any fuel pump to the fuel system. Most carburetors do not like more than a few pounds per square inch of fuel pressure.
Induction Inspection
Speaking of carburetors, if your vintage car has one, be sure to take the air cleaner off and look around to make sure all the linkages and pivots move freely. The throttle linkage should snap closed quickly with no hangup. A sticky choke linkage or small vacuum leak can grow from a small issue to a large one over the course of a long, slow drive by putting extra fuel or air into the mixture. While that air cleaner is off, be sure it is clean and well-fitted. Of course, replace if necessary.
Belts
Engines transfer most of their power into the transmission to drive the vehicle, but there are also the driven bits hanging off the front of the mill to consider. The belts and accessories are critical to a smooth-running and reliable engine. Aging belts can slip on the pulleys, potentially under-driving items like water pumps or alternators, which can lead to problems. Look for cracked or stiff belts, along with rusty or corroded pulleys. Replace belts that are in bad shape and clean up any rough pulleys with some Scotchbrite or sandpaper. If a pulley is bent or wobbling, make sure it is properly attached, and if it is out of line, look into a replacement. A wobbling pulley can throw belts and cause real headaches.
Top check
If your vintage ride is of the convertible variety, take a little extra time to ensure your top is stored properly and that any passengers know not to sit on the top or frame while waving to the crowds on the route. The frames and rear windows in most convertible tops are delicate, and though top-down motoring is fantastic, it’s nice to be able to put the top back up if the weather turns on your drive home.
Consider a full tune-up
All of the things above are great starting points, but depending on the car, a parade might be the perfect excuse to do a full tuneup. Inspect and replace the ignition system components as the ignition timing can have a sizable effect on the engine’s running temperature. Fresh oil at the proper level in the crankcase never hurt an engine either. Toss in a set of spark plugs while you are at it, and your ride will not only perform great in a parade, but also drive like it should on the way home and anywhere else you might go.
BRAKES!
No matter how good the car runs if you can’t stop it matters little. Brakes are very important as is a clutch in a manual. I know one Mustang Cobra that lost his clutch as it was suited for parade duty.
My suggestion is that you drive the car for 50 miles or so to evaluate the condition of all systems BEFORE participating in any parade- nothing like actually using the car to be sure it is good to go- oh yeah- and make sure to have a fire extinguisher handy just in case- Boy Scouts moto- Be Prepared. Slow crawls and hot engines make for an easy ignition source-
I got broadsided by a 67 Mustang when it brakes failed. He total out my station wagon. Luckily nobody got hurt. Brakes are important.
I kinda think that under the heading of “FUEL” you might want to add “check to ensure you have some”. Vapor lock issues aside, just flat running outta gas in the middle of Main Street because you didn’t gas up before going downtown is going to make your parade experience memorable (just not in a good way)!
Happy Fourth of July everyone!
I would also suggest concerning the cooling system that if the coolant has been sitting for some time, a flush might be in order. At least look at the condition of the coolant, even if you know that it is/was of the right type and mix when poured into the radiator and you are confident that none has leaked.
Inspect hoses and clamps (normal routine for any car which may sit for extended periods, particularly over the winter), and at least run the car for a little bit to ensure that the thermostat seems to open as it should.
Listen to the engine a bit, too. Sometimes odd sounds can say a lot, and better that you have that conversation with your powerplant before you end up on a parade line and the conversation becomes an argument – or a cry for help.
The mention in the article about telling folks not to sit on X or lean on Y is all well and good, but… it won’t help during the parade when someone in a costume (i.e. part of the parade, NOT a spectator) comes and sits on the X (fender, hood, back, side, etc). Footware can scratch, esp. if they are sitting on a fender thumping your car with boot heels…
Basically, expect scratches and possibly dents if you agree. I did it once, and would NEVER run my car in a parade again.
Check those tires, top them off with air if needed and maybe give them a cleaning. No one wants nearly flat or ugly tires.
Number ONE rule is : Where is the pretty girl going to sit, and is she safe there?
Confirm that the oil is filled to its correct max level. Idling engine means the lowest oil pressure throughout the length of the parade.
I have 2 electric fans for cooling, but I always check that the thermostat control to them is working. Also I have an electric fuel pump mounted on the frame rail near the back to supplement the mechanical fuel pump. If the car vapor locks, I can switch on the electric pump to clear it. Happened once and it worked great.
If you really wanna be sure go for a trial run. Just find some place where you can creep along with your car going one mile an hour for about twenty minutes. Some back country road with zero traffic is probably the best. If anything is gonna happen it can happen then and you can get it fixed before the real parade.
Maybe obvious, but I learned the hard way the driving stick in a parade is a bad idea. Unless you want to burn your clutch and wear out your leg, I’d avoid it!
Agree, like plowing snow in one ton w/ a granny gear box.
Make sure the exhaust system is in good order. No one enjoys a noxious or obnoxious exhaust during a parade.
This would have been a useful article on June 3rd.
I have been in many parades and drove cars and golf carts in a few, also a car with a clutch in exactly ONE, that was enough to convince me to never do that again. In a parade it will be either automatic or even better an EV if I ever do it again.
Some old cars like my 81 Corolla lift back came from the factory with an electric fan and automatic transmission.
Great Parade car!
Is your throw out bearing good because it’s going to get a workout? So is your left leg—had no feeling left 1/2 way through parade.
I rode my 1978 BMW R100S in a parade once, between the tall gearing and heavy clutch, it was a workout. The next year I rode the Honda CM250C, low gearing and a wet clutch won out over looking cool.